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What to EAT McAllen
PIER 67 BAR AND GRILL Although the name might suggest otherwise, this
land-locked spot delivers a Mediterranean experience. Marinated olives
and mushrooms, compliments of the chef, had us hooked, and the ribeye
steak rubbed with chipotle sauce reeled us right in. Seared tuna with
wedges of fried manchego proved too salty for even us old salts,
however. Bar. 2901 N 10th (956-683-8150). Lunch Mon–Sat 11–3. Dinner
Mon–Sat 6–midnight. Closed Sun. $$
Mission
Update CAFE D’PARIS BAKERY AND BISTRO Step through the door and you are
transported to a French sidewalk cafe, right down to the servers in
berets. A delightful déjeuner started with the restaurant’s signature
salad of greens topped with bacon, croutons, and raspberry vinaigrette.
For our main course, we nibbled at beef fondue and shared a bottle of
wine. Unfortunately, the dessert napoleon did not make the transition to
South Texas and paled in comparison to its French counterpart. Beer &
wine. 303 N. Shary Rd (956-519-7579). Open Tue–Sat 9:30–10, Sun 9:30–8.
Closed Mon. $$
Port Isabel
Update PELICAN STATION Located on the route the Rio Grande Railroad
followed in the late 1800’s, this restaurant offers an amazing view of
the Laguna Madre bay and the Queen Isabella Causeway. We ordered the
seafood platter with fish, shrimp, oysters and a crab cake, which the
kitchen graciously grilled instead of fried. Served with a delicious
red-potato salad, the combo felt totally virtuous—until we realized that
we had polished the plate clean. Live piano music and the personal
attention of the owner make dinner here a pleasure. Incidentally, note
the venerable caboose in the parking lot. Bar. 201 S. Garcia
(956-943-3344). Open Mon–Sat 11:30 a.m. to close, Sun 11 a.m. to close.
$$
Reynosa
LA MANSION DEL PRADO Good food knows no borders at this popular
ranch-style restaurant. Chateaubriand medallions, cooked tableside, are
our favorite if only for the old-school presentation. The breaded shrimp
cooked with garlic and bacon comes in a close second, however. Bar. 815
La Calle Brazil, Reynosa, Mexico (011-52-899-922-9914). Open Mon–Sat
11:30–11:30. Closed Sun. $$
Edinburg
Update SUTEKI At this welcome addition to the row of restaurants across
from the University of Texas–Pan American campus, we recently made quick
work of fresh nigiri sushi, squid salad, and sushi rolls—a solid A. An
indulgent order of the uni brought the grade to an A+. The friendly
servers and a beautiful saltwater aquarium make Suteki a lovely
departure from the campus dining hall. Beer & wine (license pending).
1102 W. University Dr (956-381-6644). Open Mon–Thur 11–10, Fri 11–11,
Sat noon–10:30. Closed Sun. $$
Los Fresnos
WILD BLUE BBQ The wonderful aroma of mesquite smoke greeted us at the
door. The chef’s recommendation, the Tour for Two, included five meats
and four sides. We tried to rank the brisket, sausage, chicken, ribs,
and pulled pork but we couldn’t; each was better than the one before. Of
the four sides, the crisp, slightly spicy green beans won top marks.
Just thinking of the restaurant’s sauces makes our mouth water. 31230
Texas Hwy 100 (956-233-8185). Open Mon–Sat 11–9. Closed Sun. $$
Cafe d'Paris brings a little taste of Europe to
the Valley
March 29, 2007
The inside of Cafe d’Paris features a spacious, open design and a
ceiling that changes from day to night. All this adds to the European
flair that is a welcome addition to the local dining scene.
Alex Jones/The Monitor
MISSION — Café d’Paris immediately struck me with its theme of European
elegance.
I felt like I was, indeed, in a French café, even though I’ve never been
in one, but I have traveled through Europe a couple of times and this
brought back some nice memories.
A waiter immediately greeted me and Dahlia at the door and showed us to
a granite-topped table with chairs made of ornate iron with a gold
patina. We were impressed with the feeling of great space created by the
tall stone walls with decorative lamps. The walls reach high toward a
blue ceiling painted with clouds, and there are faux balconies with more
wrought-iron railings and flowers.
It is a lively place, and the menu, although not very large, is
nevertheless tantalizing. The list of appetizers includes grilled
croissant or biscuit, chicken crepes (sautéed chicken breast with Asian
spices and parsley in a crunchy peanut sauce) and crab cakes (for
$12.95, this seemed more like a full meal). Entrées include the chicken
cordon bleu and the Sienne river tilapia.
We also could have chosen from the buffet, which offers a number of
dishes including Salisbury steak and fried chicken with mushrooms. A
nice touch is the extra room featuring shelves filled with all sorts of
breads and pastries.
I finally decided on the grilled chicken sandwich (they also have
turkey, roast beef and ham) which come with French fries or house style
potato chips; Dahlia ordered the classic Caesar salad for $5.45, adding
grilled chicken for another $3.95. She also had the option of adding
grilled salmon for only $5.45.
We didn’t have to wait long for our lunch, and when it arrived we
thoroughly enjoyed it. The warm and tender chicken in my sandwich was
nestled between two layers of thick fresh bread and plenty of crisp
vegetables. Dahlia’s plate was also covered with generous strips of
tender chicken on a bed of fresh, green vegetables.
I had lunch there again the following Sunday. The buffet featured clam
chowder, minestrone soup, corn chowder, a salad bar and other choices. I
settled on the chicken chipotle with a side of rosemary roasted red skin
potatoes. Again, I didn’t have to wait long, and the chicken was nice
and tender, with a gentle spicy flair that I enjoyed immensely. The
potatoes, with small sprigs of rosemary sprinkled on top, had a flavor I
didn’t expect, and the Alfredo pasta that came with the chicken was very
good. The seasoned vegetables gave the meal great balance.
I enjoyed my visits to Café d’Paris and consider this restaurant a great
addition to the Rio Grande Valley’s culinary landscape. Good food, good
service and an entertaining, romantic atmosphere make it a great
destination for an evening out or a mid-week lunch.
Café d’Paris
WHERE: 303 N. Shary Road, Mission
HOURS: 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Sat., 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sun., closed Mon.
COST: $$
PAYMENT: Accepts all major credit cards, no checks
PHONE: 519-7579
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE: Yes
RATING: 3 ½
Atmosphere: 4
Food: 3 ½
Service 3 ½
A Tasty Catch: Seafood proves to order of the day at Los
Mismos
March 21, 2007
McALLEN — Los Mismos Tacos al Pastor and Seafood immediately impressed
me with its relaxing atmosphere.
I liked the stone fireplace decorated with colorful fish and pothos ivy;
to the right, the starfish tangled in the fish net hung over a wall set
the beach theme.
My friend and I were taking an early dinner, so we had our pick of
tables. No one greeted us at the door; we chose a table against the wall
and a waitress quickly brought us some menus, along with chips and
several kinds of salsa. She pointed out that the fajitas and shrimp
plate is the restaurant’s specialty. I scanned over the rest of the menu
and had difficulty making my decision.
There are two sections of appetizers, one of them consisting of charro
beans, guacamole, nachos and other items, the other falling under the
title “Seafood Appetizers,” which includes shrimp salad, fried oysters
and shrimp pizza. The menu also includes a Mexican food section, soups,
seafood cocktails and children’s platters.
The fajita and tampiqueña plates, both at $5.99, tempted me, as did the
shrimp enchiladas ($6.99). I finally settled on the restaurant’s
specialty for $6.99. My friend had a more difficult time making her
choice before ordering the tacos de camaron, an appetizer that turned
out to be a meal in itself.
The waitress soon brought me a small bowl of seafood soup, packed with a
delicious flavor and ample chunks of seafood. We soon had our entrees.
My friend thoroughly enjoyed her shrimp tacos, especially with the
liberal sprinklings of cilantro, although she didn’t care much for the
oil that saturated the tortillas. I had one and enjoyed it immensely,
whereas she removed the shrimp and wrapped it in one of the hot,
store-bought corn tortillas the waitress had brought.
My meal was very satisfactory, with plenty of beef and shrimp cooked
just right and mixed with grilled onions and bell peppers. I also liked
the charro beans, packed with tasty seasonings that made them almost
audaciously delicious. The price for all this?
Less than $13.
I returned the following day with three other dining companions. It was
about 1 p.m. and the lunch hour was in full swing. We selected a square
table in the middle of the main dining room (there’s another in back),
one of the last ones left. Apparently, lots of people have found out
about Los Mismos.
The waiter immediately brought us some chips, and the ceviche tostadas,
another appetizer, were quickly decided upon.
W e also placed regular orders: I got the stuffed crab (three), and the
other orders included flautas, shrimp ranchera and bistec tacos.
The ceviche tostadas came first; a fine concoction of fish, onion,
cilantro, tomato and avocado on a crispy tostada shell. The mild
tartness of cilantro and tomato made this an energizing experience, a
perfect prelude to the main meal.
Once again, I got some delicious seafood soup before my main meal, which
soon arrived at my table: three crab shells packed with meat and tasty
vegetables, with sides of rice, toast and French fries.
The bistec tacos were a hit, although a simple affair with meat, diced
onions and cilantro, and a side order of beans which were delicious.
The flautas, were reported as “decent.” The shrimp ranchera was doused
in a thick red sauce, but the meal was too hot at the outset. Upon
cooling however, the entrée was well worth the wait, offering plump
morsels of shrimp laced with a thick, tart sauce.
Everything was nice, hot, and tasty, with good portions, and we liked
the service. We would like to have had a waiter or waitress meet us at
the door, and I personally wish they had home-made corn tortillas, but
these are small matters compared to the overall experience. Los Mismos
is a great place for lunch or dinner, and they also serve breakfast.
WHAT: Los Mismos Tacos al Pastor and Seafood
WHERE: 1318 N. 10th St., McAllen
HOURS OF OPERATION: 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Sat.
PAYMENT: Checks, credit cards, debit cards
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE: Yes
COST: $
RATING: 3
Atmosphere: 3
Food: 3
Service: 2 ½
New sandwich shop makes a pleasant lunch stop
March 16, 2007
Toast is a new lunchtime sandwich shop located inside Dolce, a night
club, at 400 W. Nolana in McAllen. Pictured is the Dolce Club with
turkey, bacon, cheddar and light basil mayonnaise. (By Kirsten Luce)
McALLEN — I really liked the soup and the Old Reuben sandwich I had for
lunch at Toast, a new gourmet sandwich shop that opened about two months
ago.
Toast turns into Dolce, a nightclub, in the evenings, but on this
particular afternoon I enjoyed a hot soup filled with beef, vegetables
and barley; the Reuben was filled with warm tasty meat that I enjoyed
immensely.
Upbeat Spanish pop music filled the room, along with the enthusiastic
murmur of conversation, and I found the decorative industrial design of
the walls rather interesting.
Word has gotten around about Toast. A group of women had pushed several
tables together for what appeared to be a meeting over sandwiches; a
young gentlemen eating alone was just finishing up his lunch when I
arrived, but his table was quickly taken by two new patrons.
The waitress was very attentive; I didn’t have to ask for a menu because
each table had several cards listing the names of the available
sandwiches: there is the First Timer, with turkey, Swiss cheese, lettuce
and tomato for $4.95; the Dolce Club, with turkey, bacon and cheddar
cheese with light basil mayo for $5.95; and the Banker Exec, Old Reuben
and Raziel’s Meltdown, among others.
The tables, set with clean white tablecloths, were all arranged in a
single line down the middle of the restaurant. I found this a bit
uncomfortable; it would be a bit more aesthetically pleasing to add a
few more tables and stagger them back and forth. This arrangement is
most likely due to the facility’s mixed use. The current seating, as it
stands, only can seat approximately 25 people altogether, so be prepared
to come early, or to wait if there is a rush.
Cushioned seats line both walls, and that’s where two women waited for
their carryout orders, which soon arrived. A young man who sat quietly
nearby got his carryout a few minutes later.
I had mixed feelings about my previous visit, however. When I first
walked in I was struck by the silence.
Nobody had arrived yet, no music filled the room and no one greeted me.
However, as soon as I sat down a woman in the back said they would be
right with me.
I later discovered I had arrived right after they opened at 11 a.m. and
the lunch crowd doesn’t really start arriving until almost 1 p.m.
A waitress soon came to my table and took my drink order, and when she
came back I requested the Dolce Club.
A man whom I assumed to be in management came by and explained that they
heat the meat as well as the toast, and it was a nice touch.
The sandwich was good and featured plenty of vegetables, and the soup
was equally delicious.
Soon, the room was filled with the eloquent vocals of Natalie Cole, the
first of the lunch crowd came in and I began to relax.
I came to like this place. The sandwiches are good, the service is
pleasant. I’d like to see the café add a few more items to the menu —
only nine sandwiches are listed — but it’s a pleasant place and a nice
choice for lunch.
TOAST
ADDRESS: Inside Dolce, 400 W. Nolana, McAllen
PHONE: (956) 972-1155;
(956) 929-4592
HOURS: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mon. - Sat.
PRICE LEVEL: $
PAYMENT: checks, all major credit cards
Wheelchair acc.: Yes
Service: 3
Food: 3
Ambiance: 3
OVERALL: 3
(all scores out of 4)
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